I am not a good surfer.I will be the first one to admit it.
So on the drive down to the beach this year, I spent a little time thinking about why I bother surfing every year. Am I getting too old for this kind of thing? What need am I fulfilling? Should I resign myself to spending the rest of my days at the beach lounging under an umbrella reading a good book (which I also LOVE)?
The answers that I came up with were these...
1. I spend nearly all of my time every day taking care of other people. When I get any time to myself doing something that I truly enjoy, I feel like I am taking care of me. That makes me a better mom and a better wife. So I savor this time in the water. It is good for my soul, and I don't even know how to explain that in a way that makes any sense.
2. Surfing is great exercise, and since it is in the water I don't have to get all sweaty.
3. I enjoy the challenge. I have always been a water person, and I like snowboarding and am okay at that. You would think that I would be able to get this then... but it is really hard! Surfing gives me a purpose for hanging out in the ocean.
4. The surroundings are beautiful. I love the soothing sound of crashing waves, and the sight of pelicans gliding inches above the water on the lookout for fish, or the clouds on the endless horizon. Once a large ray about 4 feet across swam right by me. I feel like I am enjoying nature at it's best when I am in the ocean.
Looking for the best waves. One tough thing is letting my super light sensitive eyes get used to seeing without my sunglasses.
Paddling out.
There I am... a tiny speck on the great big Atlantic and the lovely vegetation on the dune. Photo and babysitting credit goes to Andy for this post.
10 comments:
Great pictures! You look so good too, you are in great shape :) I totally agree with the taking care of yourself thing. It is a key element that we forget too often.
Great photos. I totally agree about being around the water. I only wish I could make that happen again. Glad you remember to do something for yourself. Outer Banks, take me away.
Wow, that looks amazing. I LOVE the photo of you walking on the beach and looking at the water. You are still a funky fresh lifeguard at heart.
Oh, yeah. It's not called babysitting when you are the father :)
Very good post. I enjoy watching you surf. I think it is because I always knew why it has been important to you and I'm your mom so I know everything, right? I guess we (moms) get a lot of pleasure watching our child do something they enjoy so much.
I'm glad you continue to do it! You're so right about how taking time for ourselves makes us better moms. Plus, the water is so freeing. Keep on going!
I'm just as impressed that you can post a picture of yourself looking so hot in a swimsuit as I am that you can surf. You always were good at EVERYTHING you did, even something you'd never done before.
SURFING IS RAD
Good for you! I wish I could surf. You look great in that first picture.
Post a Comment